A New You: Lee Wallace
Who: Lee Wallace; one grown daughter and two grandsons; lives in Midtown, and is a registered dietitian at the Boling Center for Developmental Disabilities.
Issues: A co-worker submitted Wallace because she needed a new look. Wallace agreed, and said she needed color, and she had no clue what length skirt would work for her, or what styles in general were good for her.
Hair fix: Karl Smith, a creative colorist at DiVa Colour Studio in Memphis, TN, who trained in London with advanced training in Australia, explained to Wallace that with just one-third gray, she didn’t need drastic color. Smith applied a golden varnish to give tonal dimension within her hair color. He then used the Balayage highlighting technique of light dusting of color near the root to a full coverage of color near the ends. The method will ease Wallace’s gray into her hair, creating an illusion of extra highlighting.
Smith trimmed about 3 inches off Wallace’s hair to set the foundation for the cut that he would create based on her needs, type of hair and face shape.
The result was a style tapered around her face and layered in the back that gave Wallace’s hair body and shape, even when she shook her head. Wallace mixed Barex Hairgomine and Raha Silky Smooth to give Wallace anti-humidity protection and shine without losing body. Indie Hair Powder, which is good for fine, straight hair, was used to give lift at the crown. The final styling was done with a round brush alternating heat and cold settings on the blow dryer.
Beauty fix: I used mineral makeup by Cheyenne’s Designs, an online company based in Mississippi. Wallace does not wear makeup often and wanted as many tips as we could offer. I started with Nude Opal mineral powder, building the foundation over red areas to create a soft palette. The pigment of the foundation was so strong (a positive) that no concealer was needed, and I did not apply a blush, allowing instead her naturally rosy cheeks to show and be softened by the foundation.
I used green gold along the lower lid topped with Joy over the entire lid. I used dark brown mineral powder eye shadow as an eyeliner on the lower lash line. Wallace has a problem with mascara, so we brushed her lashes with the dark brown mineral powder. Translucent Setting Powder was patted over the foundation. Lip color, in a pot, in Pink Magic, nearly the color of Wallace’s lips, was applied with a lip brush.
Fashion fix: I took Wallace to the Clothes Mentor, a growing national chain resale store in Cordova, TN. Using Wallace’s Warm Golden Colour Palette, we narrowed the search to certain colors. Then, from those colors, I showed her how to make choices based on her personality and body line.
Wallace has high hips, so she needs clothes that help create definition for her waist. We agreed on building from a knee-length straight blue skirt and black skirt. Finding the right skirt required a few try-ons; tapered hip skirts have extra material at the hips that becomes wing-like on someone with high hips. Then, finding the correct length for Wallace’s comfort was the next problem. Unfortunately, many skirts made today come shorter than most women want. We went through several skirts trying to find the right fit and the right length.
We then chose a black-and-yellow print blouse, added a thin black belt just below the bust line, and spotlighted the colors with a bright yellow bangle and a lime-green shell necklace.
For her second outfit, we chose a blue linen short swing coat to go over an off-white rumpled full-cut tank, and for a pop of color, an orange linen scarf and orange plastic link-bracelet. Nude peep-toe pumps were chosen to go with both skirts, so as not to redirect the eye from her outfit.
Score card: “I love my hair,” Wallace said as she swiftly moved her head to make her hair bounce. “The clothes are great, the store is great — I love it all! The makeup is so easy to use; I would actually put makeup on!” A few days later, Wallace admitted that she could not get the style exactly as Smith had styled it; however, she said that it still looked great, even with her limited skills. She was elated that she had found such a talented stylist.
Clothes Mentor gave Wallace both complete outfits, and she purchased a couple more tops.
DiVa Colour Studio gave Wallace the Robert Ramos shampoo and conditioner, Alto Bella Styling Foam, and Indie Round 2 Hair Powder.
Fashion Academy gave her the Warm Golden Colour Palette.
A New You: Jo Garner
Who: Jo Garner, 50, of Germantown; mortgage originator at Evolve Bank and Trust; host for WREC-AM 600’s “Real Estate Mortgage Shoppe”; facilitator of the networking group Talk Shoppe.
Issues: Wanted to lose weight, and wanted a more professional look since she is in the public more and more with her business ventures.
Hair fix: Certified stylist Bob Turner of Gould’s Spa and Salon in Collierville took on creating an easy-care style for Garner. To illuminate her natural color, he applied a clear glaze for a healthy shine. Garner’s new style had to be able to be styled without any tools (she admitted to Turner she didn’t even own a blow dryer). Turner created a style that was shorter in the back, and was textured throughout so her fine hair would be able to hold its own style. He used shears and a razor along the neckline and outer edges for softness. Turner used B&B Thickening Full Form Mousse while Garner’s hair was wet; then on dry hair he used B&B Thickening Crème Contour and styled with his fingers.
Beauty fix: I used Your True Colours makeup, starting with moisturizer, followed by primer. Over her entire face, I used Light Collage Mineral Pressed Foundation, mostly for ease of use. Charcoal mineral shadow was applied along the upper lash line, Wheat was used over the entire lid after the Charcoal, for ease of blending. Brown loose powder mineral eyeliner was applied along the lower lash line with an angled brush and sealant. Bob Turner applied hair color to Garner’s eyebrows to match her natural hair color and define her eyes. To complement Garner’s Warm Golden skin tone, Studio Gear Natural Peach cream to powder blush was lightly applied on the apple of the cheeks, and Playful lipstick was used, followed by Birthday Suit lip gloss.
Fashion fix: Vera Terrell, certified retail fashion consultant with Fashion Academy at Dillard’s Oak Court, fit Garner in her new size and new look — a Kasper separates pantsuit in gray, with a slight peplum jacket to enhance Garner’s waistline, and a fitted blue shirt. Gianni Bini kitten-heeled pointed-toe pumps in navy blue were chosen. To accent her true corporate look, pieces by 7 Lucky Stones, found on Facebook, were introduced. Labradorite beaded necklace with a matte gold chain and a bamboo jasper pendant on a brass chain enhanced by copper freshwater pearls accented with a labradorite and gray jade bracelet gave Garner just the right amount of accessories, since she normally doesn’t even wear a watch or earrings.
Fitness fix: Rita Connally, personal trainer at the Schilling Farms YMCA in Collierville, worked with Garner for just over three months. Connally stepped in to upgrade Garner’s initial regimen. Connally pushed Garner to her limits, then served as her facilitator and cheerleader when needed, continually challenging her as she advanced. Garner was instructed in general nutrition, healthful snacks, and options for food that would “fill her up.” The result: Garner lost inches and 25 pounds and added muscle. Garner went from a size 16 to a size 12 (a 12 is a little big, but a 10 is still a little tight).
Score card: “I love it. Thank you.” Garner said over and over. “My hair is amazing, and I can do this.” Schilling Farms YMCA gave Garner the three months of use of the Y for free, (And she is keeping up the membership to stay on top of her fitness, and keeping Connally as her personal trainer.), Fashion Academy gave her her colour palette, Dillard’s gave her 40 percent off on the clothes, which she purchased.
Insider info: From Connally: “A personal trainer does not necessarily stay with you the entire time. This makes people think they can’t afford a personal trainer. A personal trainer sets the program, then checks on you once in a while and makes changes as needed, or stays with you 100 percent of the time in the gym. You decide what you need and what you can afford.” From me: “Corporate accessories — think of each item you wear as five points. You are allowed 25 points. Wedding rings, watch, two stud earrings, equal 15 points. So, you can wear two more things. If earrings are larger than studs (no dangly), then they would be five points each.”
A New You: Sarah Henley
Who: Sarah Henley of Lake Cormorant, Miss., a single, 25-year-old social media consultant, who is 4-feet-7-inches tall.
Issues: She had worked in a warehouse, where it didn’t matter that she wore children’s jeans and T-shirts. But she found it difficult to look professional in an office job while wearing the children’s-size clothing that fit her diminutive stature.
Hair fix: Michelle Swiatkowski, cosmetologist at 525 Clothing Design Salon, took note of Henley’s youthful, dramatic personality, and created a more complimentary look, focusing on changing her intense red hair. She combined two Keune reds — intense copper red and orange copper — to create a red hair color that was on the Warm Golden color palette, ensuring it would not wash Henley’s already fair complexion completely out.
To build body in Henley’s hair, Swiatkowski used Kenra Thickening glaze, followed by the Polishing glaze to protect the hair without weighing it down. Swiatkowski created fullness in Henley’s ‘flat to her head’ style, using the Sahag dry cut. She inverted Henley’s style for length in the front, where it was needed. Swiatkowski’s cut made styling simple, hair spray first, then styling with a curling wand. Strong winds on the day of the shoot did not destroy the perfectly cut hair; all pieces fell right back into place, a must for a no-muss hairstyle.
Beauty fix: Rachel Evans, makeup artist at 525 Clothing Design Salon, used Luminaire Airbrush foundation shade No. 2 on Henley to create a smooth, even look. Drawing on the intensity of Henley’s hair color, Evans chose dark-brown copper and shimmer-gold eye shadows. To connect her eye color with the hair, Evans lined along the lash line with dark brown, then added a green liner on top of the brown liner on the upper lid only. Evans applied a soft warm pink blush with the Luminaire, too. Topping it off with Luminaire Brightening Glow, a slight gold pigment for a warm shine and to seal the makeup. Black mascara was applied on Henley’s naturally long lashes.
Swiatkowski had colored Henley’s brows in a dark auburn brown. The finishing touch was a bright intense cool pink, topped with a gold shimmer to create a warmer color for Henley.
Fashion fix: Carolyn Bendall, president of Fashion Academy and Image Consultant, searched for the right children’s store that was fitting for a 25-year-old professional. Monsoon, a United Kingdom-based store that recently opened in Shops of Saddle Creek, had classic items that filled the need. A cotton navy/cream striped blazer ($35) with a polyester flowing jumpsuit ($84), both machine washable, were a perfect fit.
Score card: Henley beamed, “I love it! I love the hair color! I feel like I actually look 25, instead of 12! I’m wearing this to the Business Over Coffee meeting on Thursday!” Shops of Saddle Creek gave Henley a $50 gift certificate, Fashion Academy gave her the Warm Golden color palette. Henley’s mother, Patty, purchased the hair products as a gift.
Insider info: From Evans: When you choose unnatural or intense hair color, never do the brows the same color. Brows should be a shade or two darker than the unnatural hair color. Example: For intense reds, use dark brown auburns; for unnatural purple hair, use dark black or deep brown for brows. When using reds, unnatural or intense, refrain from washing hair with shampoo more than twice a week. Red is the hardest dye to hold on to the hair shaft. Frequent washing will fade it quickly.
It is amazing to me how designers just do not get it, sometimes. Esther Williams, the famed swimmer and actress, started a line of swimwear for women that was more flattering than anything on the market, at the time. Finding her swimwear was difficult when it first came out, because it sold out as soon as it was put on the floor. When I bought mine, I literally had to have it reserved for when it came in. Now, a plus size blogger is designing a swimsuit that is beautiful, and specifically for plus size women, Gabifresh. Yes, the line is called Gabifresh, NOT fatkini like you will see in articles. It took a 10 minute search to finally find the ‘real’ name of these wonderful plus size swimsuits. Isn’t that sad.
Women want to cover certain areas of our bodies, we do not want it all exposed. Women have had no favors given to them in the line of bathing suit designs. Very sad. Tapered hip women who have hips and put their weight on in their thighs, lower tummy, and bottom (no matter the size, from a size 2 to 22!!), were destroyed by the ‘French cut’ bathing suit. You know the one, the side goes all the way up to the waist now! It started with just about an inch hike on the side, and it just kept getting higher and higher. Well, those style was created to ‘lengthen the leg’. Here is the problem with that logic. It is only flattering on a high hip body type, one that has no definitive waist, they put their weight on across the middrif. And, they usually already have longer legs than average. So, why would they want longer legs? Who would want longer legs, tapered hips. However, the ‘French cut’ accented their hips, in a very unflattering way. So, in reality this style was created for NO ONE!!
The elegant swimsuit is one that covers the hip on the tapered hip woman. Or, that creates waist for the high hip woman. The elegant swimsuit is the one that a woman can wear and not fear what she may show while playing in the water.
Now, there are those of you that are thinking I am a prude. Well, no. I’ve lived in California and Hawaii. I’ve seen the tee shirts that are worn OVER the skimpy bathing suits. Not just while on the beach, but while in the water. I’ve also seen the skimpy bathing suits that were worn on the beach, and in the water. And, the tee shirts far out number the other. The item worn now over the bathing suit is the spandex short (usually an athletic short of type) or the ‘board shorts’. So, you tell me…do women want to be covered on the beach? Yes, they do. Granted, there are those few that want to wear a bikini; and some with no care for what we see, meaning putting a size 14 body into a size 10 bikini. Oh, that hurts my eyes just thinking about it. Ladies apparently are not aware of the ‘Dunlap disease’. Many men are accused of having it, however, women seem immune to it when they put on that bathing suit. What is ‘Dunlap disease’? When your belly has done lapped over your pants!
Check out these suits, they are timeless and elegant. http://www.esther-williams.com/web-page_2.html or http://swimsuitsforall.com/Gabi-Fresh-for-s4a-Swimwear-Collections?utm_source=AFF&utm_medium=CPA&utm_campaign=314743
Leggings, They are not Pants.
Leggings are not pants. They never were meant to be pants. And, yes, when you see them advertised they show them with a short top, but they also show them with NO top…would you replicate that style? They show bras without a top over them, would you wear the bra without a top? It is simply photographed that way for you to see the how the legging is made, is it a high waist that goes all the up to the bra line because it will smooth out the torso; is it to the waist; is it just below the waist. That is why they photograph it that way.
Leggings are relatively inexpensive, and there are those that perhaps see them as a cheaper pair of pants. If you need to do that for budgeting purposes, then get a tunic to go with it. Many inexpensive dresses can double as a tunic (because in reality they really are too short to be a dress!). The top should always come at minimum an inch below the crotch in the front and completely cover the behind in the back, with several inches to spare. The stylish high-low tunics (or mullet tunics, as some call them), are perfect for leggings, assuming they do cover the crotch in the front.
The general public just doesn’t need as much information as a legging with a crop top or short top provides. We really don’t need to know exactly where your underwear is; or terrifyingly the lack of underwear. We don’t need to see your little rolls of adipose tissue, or the wrinkles of cellulite, or the exact outline of your female nether regions (also called ‘taco pants’). It is just not pleasant. And, no, the men do not want to see it, either. I’ve seen many men turn away from such a sight; laugh between each other; roll eyes; or mouth the word ‘seriously’. For the one or two men that might be attracted to such a display, they are probably not the men you want to attract. I’ve seen posts of one of my young female friends’ on Facebook post over and over, “Women, you don’t want that type of attention!”
Body type can come into play with leggings. A high hip does the best with leggings and tunics, they can do any type of tunic. A tapered hip should do a full tunics, an aline tunic, a princess cut tunic, basically any tunic that has lots of room from the waist down. If a tapered hip uses a straight tunic, they will achieve close to the same affect as wearing a crop or short top with the legging. There must be room for the top to move, and it should not tuck under the behind, or under the tummy. For a wonderful look, the top should glide gracefully over the tummy and the bottom.
I purposefully showed slender women wearing leggings the wrong way, the blue one and the gray ones; and the right way the black ones and the brown ones; because I wanted to make a point that just because you are slender still means these rules apply to you. I’ve heard slender women, while wearing leggings incorrectly, say about a larger woman wearing incorrectly, that they should never wear leggings…..not realizing that they look just as bad. Just face it, leggings are not pants!!
One last note about leggings, they are NOT office appropriate for Corporate or Communicative business. Even on Casual Friday. They are not appropriate. Even worn correctly. They are not appropriate. In a Creative busniess environment, worn correctly, they will work.
Do the same rules apply to Jeggings? Absolutely. Postively. See the red jeggings……
Perfection in all things?
Perhaps the most frustrating subject I have to address is when women do not feel that they measure up to the expected physical appearance that is expected by a bunch of people who are being paid a lot money to create a perfect ideal, and they, most likely, themselves do not measure up to that ideal. The movie “The Devil Wears Prada” was a prime example of people who live in a world that is not like anyone that really reads their magazine! I’ve read that the editor of Vogue magazine has a stylist come into her office every morning to do her hair. Seriously!!! And, you, the consumer are paying her salary by buying the magazine, which affords her the opportunityt to do so! And, if she really has a stylist coming into her office to do her hair everyday, when her hair style is such a simple style, what does that say about her abilities to even blow dry her hair?! Not so sure I’d want people to know I couldn’t take care of a simple style! Also, what does it say about her stylist? Her stylist is so inept in his/her own profession that he is unable to do a cut that the customer can do on their own at home? I work with the best in the business and they all do cuts that are easy to work, and they show the client how to do it before they even leave the salon!! So, what is the lesson we need to learn from this? It is that, this is all for show!!! It is to put oneself above others, knowing full well that few people can afford to have a stylist 5 days a week. However, there are those that will think, ‘Oh, my. I must do this, too!”
Folks, most of the fashion trends that are out there, or beauty trends that are out there are simply to sell you something. They really don’t care about the real person, or what the real person can afford and what the real person’s time constraints are, etc. They are out there to sell a product or service to make a buck. Yep. As much as they cry, “Oh no, I’m very compassionate! I care about what you look like.” They don’t. Don’t fall for it.
My husband and I were just talking about a shoe company that gives away a pair of shoes for every shoe you purchase. Given the price of the shoe….they aren’t being charitable!! They have a marketing dream!! Have the consumer buy our shoes because we advertise WE GIVE AWAY a pair of shoes for every shoe that is purchased. No. YOU, the consumer are BUYING a pair of shoes with each pair of shoes you purchase. If THEY were giving away the shoe, I guarantee that the shoe would be less expensive. Great idea, but they are a little misleading in their marketing because we don’t stop and think about it real hard!!
When I go into a cosmetic store to do a makeover, and they use 21 products on this woman’s face…a woman who is young and beautiful already, one knows for sure they are in it to sell products. They used six products alone on her eyelids! There isn’t enough eyelid to use six products!! We fall for it, we think that we are inadequate and therefore we buy it.
Ladies, think better of yourselves. Please!! I received a phone call from a friend of mine that is a makeup artist and she was beside herself. She had just a makeover done on The Today Show. They had chosen a lady from a small town in Utah. They dressed her in a short black dress and stilletto boots. What did Stefanee say, “Where in the world in a small town in Utah is she ever going to wear that again!” She went on to say that the lady didn’t even look that excited about the end result of the makeover. The problem with makeovers on television is that a company has paid them to use their clothes, makeup, and hair care/styling. And, the person doing the makeover is usually a Dramatic personality, who does not take into consideration what the person’s lifestyle and personality will dictate exactly how to do a makeover. I have yelled at the television myself, over some of the makeover shows! I had to stop watching them, the cruelty and the non-information given the women most of the time makes the makeover more of a glamour shot than a makeover. Meaning, a glamour shot is for the moment. A makeover is new way of doing things.
The makeovers that we have done, do not take the people out of their comfort zone. And, those who do not keep up their hair style mostly are because they could not afford to go back to the stylist that we used. However, in their own way, they have continued to follow the new guidelines that they were given.
Unrealistic expectations create women and girls that are damaged emotionally for life, and they miss out on so much happiness that could be. When a store announces that they only want skinny people to shop there, we know that our society has reached a new low. When a store chain decides that they want to sell their plus size stores to another company because they do not want to focus on the plus size market, we have a problem with our society. Please realize that all of these stores and companies are in it to make a dollar, they really, really do not care about your well being. So, when they say they do….they probably don’t. Now, there are exceptions, Dove soap is doing a wonderful campaign, and if anyone out there knows someone at Dove, please introduce us!
Ladies, you are of infinity worth. You are of a divine nature. Please take heed, and turn away from the fashion magazines and the fashion shows. And, when the article reads that Kim Kardashien’s baby fat is not pretty, but Princess Kate’s baby bump is darling…..well, it is an article you do not need to read. One can simply look at their differing body types and know right away that they are going react in their pregnancies in different ways. We simply cannot compare ourselves to others, we are unique and beautiful in our right. A young girl with large bones will never fit into the Size 0 dress and should never be made to feel she is of less worth than the girl that has a small bone structure. As both women move into adulthood, and eventually motherhood, they are going to continue to look different. That is a good thing, it is NOT a bad thing. Some of us have high hips and will never have a tiny waist, yet, weigh all of 100 lbs, or the same body shape will have large bones and no waist weighs 160 lbs. Some of us will have tapered hips, with a resulting ‘figure 8’ shape, however, that shape might be a size 0 on top, and a size 2 on bottom; or a size 10 on top and a size 14 on bottom! We can’t change our bones. Realize that, and wake up to the ‘fashion snobs’ that are trying to make you feel less of yourself because you cannot wear the latest style.
Yes, this turned into a rant, but I’ve just seen too many happenstances over the last few weeks that has just put me on edge and I had to release it all! Be you. Ignore media, ads, and magazines, especially ones that tout celebrities as the person to look like. YOU like YOU; you have your grandmothers eyes; your father’s eyes; your mother’s bone structure; and your great-great-grandmother you never met’s hair….and all should be celebrated!!
Figure Flaws? No, Design Flaws.
I was asked earlier this week what to do about figure flaws. Hmm. Well, first of all, figure flaws are not the issue we have at hand. Someone with a tapered hip will have adipose tissue build up on the hips, tummy, and bottom. Someone with a high hip will have adipose tissue build up at the waist and tummy, and will have a flat bottom and slender legs. Those are not figure flaws, those are facts. Hard cold facts. The flaws come from the designers! So, let’s re-phrase the question that I was asked, “What do we do about design flaws?”
Why design flaws? Because what sane person thinks that a size 14 can wear a body hugging top with spandex in it, and it will look the same as a size 0 wearing the same top? NO!! Anything over about a size 8, should not be body hugging. But, that is too expensive to mass produce. For each size to have a slightly different pattern angle is not cost effective, so we have women wearing tops that cling to every bump and bulge they have.
More design flaws, pants made for a tapered hip that come way below the waist. That is when we have the crack issues. (Need we further explain?) Tapered hips have fullness at the hip and bottom, and when one sits the material of the pant slides down in direct proportion to the spread of the body as it sits. Add, this to some poor sole that has a long torso, and guess what…she now has indecent exposure!!
Design flaws are accepted by us! We concur with them by purchasing them! Stop purchasing them! If all of the tapered women would stop buying skinny jeans, then guess what, skinny jeans would go away! There is nothing more unflattering that even a size 0, tapered hip, in jeans that were made for high hips (no extra material to allow for a thigh that has a hip bone and the bottom, high hips have no hip/thigh bone and flat bottoms so skinny jeans are made for them). If you want to look fat, even as a size 0, wear too tight skinny jeans or tapered leg jeans. Bad look, very bad look.
Then there is the legging or jegging. Oh my, the enemy of the tapered hip woman. High hip women can successfully wear these, with a straight tunic. Tapered hip women can successfully wear it with a full tunic. No one should ever wear a crop top or waist or hip length top. Yes, I know that is the photo on the packaging, but that is so that you see the legging or jegging. Notice, they are sold in the hosery department, not the pants department.
Other design flaws are the lack of darts in tops anymore to allow for the bustline. Instead they use stretchy spandex so that the shirt can stretch over the bustline. ‘C’ cups and up are not overly benefitting from this style! The designer now assumes that everyone is an ‘A’ or ‘B’ cup. Silly, isn’t it. But, there again, we buy it anyway.
So, stop tearing yourself down with figure flaws, and start noticing the design flaws!